Wednesday 17 December 2014

Chapter 1: Leap of faith



Buenos Aires: After 30-something hours of travel (one ferry, two planes, four airports, a bus, a taxi, some walking, some stress and confusion and a shitload of waiting) I finally arrived in BA. I thought Chicago was huge.. This city has the population of more than a 3rd of Australia. Amazing architecture. Interesting art and museums. Awful footpaths. Good food.
This is where my uphill battle with Spanish began. I can communicate basic ideas easily enough, however I cannot understand what these Argentinos are saying. I’m glad I have 11 more months to practice..


Bariloche: I like the vibe of Bariloche more already. It’s good to get away from the hustle and bustle of BA. It’s a small city set on a lake with beautiful alpine surrounds.

Bariloche was pretty cool. I spent a day up in the snowfields, rode around a lake, and did some hiking in the surrounding hills. I met Ana, who inspired me because she speaks 3 languages quite fluently; Thales, a Brazilian kid with whom I could barely communicate with but with whom I had a lot of fun; Exe, who taught me how to make a rad bracelet; Angelo, who talked me into hitch-hiking to El Bolson (another story); and De, an Aussie chick that I did some hiking and riding with.

To get out of my comfort zone and to experience something new I decided to hitch-hike from Bariloche to El Bolson (a hippie town about 130kms south where I was going to find my mate Ezra). I was assured by travellers and locals alike that it was perfectly safe and very easy to get a ride. So I stuck my thumb out and started walking... About five hours later with a storm approaching, sore shoulders, an empty stomach and a crushed spirit I decided to give up. I jumped in a taxi and asked him to take me to the bus terminal, but about 3/4 of the way there I realised that Id lost my sunnies and the 100 pesos I keep with them. I told the driver I didnt have enough to keep going but he very nicely drove me the rest of the way for free. Luckily I was able to pay for the bus with my card... By about 9pm I was in El Bolson! With no cash, no food, no accomodation, no communications and 5 hours late for meeting Ezra. With the help of a local cafe I sorted my shit out and was soon enjoying a much needed dinner of beer and empanadas with Ezra.

Los perros me entienden más que los Argentinos. 

Exploring the surrounds of Bariloche. 


My Portuguese friends Ana and Thales. Ana speaks three languages. I could barely communicate with Thales but he was cool.  


A day on the slopes. 


Found this 'Cementario del Montañes' while riding around one of the Seven Lakes. 

El Bolson: Wow. My first real taste of the Andes. Ive spent the last two weeks or so exploring the mountains surrounding the area. A day drip up snow capped Piltrquitron. Watching some guys kiteboard on top of Perito Moreno. A 6 day hike to the magical isolated Lago Soberania, returning via Refugio Retemal and Cerro Dedo Gordo, which was a walk that varied from easygoing riverside 'mallin' to waist deep melting snow and scaling up very steep gravelly slopes to a moon like plateau.
We also walked about 25kms over the Andes to spend an hour in Chile so that we could renew our visas for Argentina.

My last few days have been spent helping out a mate on a farm. I met him briefly while waiting for a bus and we ended up hanging out here in Bolson. He is WOOFing around Sth America and the owner of his farm had to go to Buenos Aires, so ive been keeping him company. From here Ezra is heading East with his friend and I am planning to hitchhike to Bariloche tomorrow, catch a bus to Puerto Montt in Chile and couchsurf for a few days. I want to buy a bike and ride to Ushuaia. Im nervous as hell, excited, under prepared and keen as...


Ezra and myself eating empanadas by Lago Puelo. 


Ezra and Ja Cobo sizing up the last climb on Cerro Piltriquitron. 


Found this dog hanging out at the peak. He followed us back down. 


Cerro Piltriquitron


Cerro Piltriquitron. 


Ezra. Always playing jokes. Cerro Perito Moreno.


Kiteboarding at the top of Cerro Perito Moreno with some of Ezra's mates and their dog El Manú.


When faced with a steel bridge and this dodgy piece of 'engineering' I think the choice was obvious.


Hiking with Ezra along Río Azul towards Los Lagitos and Lago Soberanía. 


Río Azul


The bridge over Cajón del Azul. It was a substantial drop. 


After 10 hours walking we arrived at Refugio Los Lagitos and met an interesting guy who had been there for 5 months. A bit of an outsider by choice, he had a line tattooed on his forehead so that he would never fit back in to regular society.


The mallín


Refugio Dedo Gordo. 


We walked through a pass through the Andes to the border of Chile to renew Ezra's Argenitian visa. It took about 10 hrs. 


The way was marked well haha. I think this was the only sign we saw (on the way back). It was a difficult track to find. A bit if a maze..


Looking exhausted after the two day hike to Chile (about 60kms).


Puerto Natales: FILL IN LATER  FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER FILL IN LATER


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